The Heuvelrug
The Utrechtse Heuvelrug is a glacial ridge pushed up during the penultimate ice age, when the ice sheet reached this far south. The highest point is 69 metres near Amerongen, which counts as considerable in Dutch terms. A continuous belt of woodland runs along it from Rhenen to Hilversum, with walking and cycling routes following the whole length.
Woods and hills on one side, the city of Utrecht half an hour away on the other.
Along the southern edge runs the Stichtse Lustwarande, a line of country estates between Utrecht and Rhenen built by Amsterdam merchants who summered here. Amerongen Castle and Slot Zuylen are open to visitors, and many of the estate woodlands are freely accessible.
The city of Utrecht
Utrecht has the Dom Tower, at 112 metres the tallest church tower in the country, and wharf cellars along the canals that sit at water level rather than above it. That arrangement exists nowhere else: you walk beside the water with cafe terraces right on the quay, a level below the street.
Tip
Parking in Utrecht is expensive and limited. Trains from Maarn and Rhenen reach Utrecht Centraal in fifteen to thirty minutes, and the station opens straight onto the centre: the Dom is a five-minute walk. Utrecht Centraal is also the main rail hub of the Netherlands, so most other cities are one direct train away.
With children
Ouwehands Dierenpark is in Rhenen, next to three of the seven parks. It runs a bear and wolf forest that takes in animals rescued from captivity. The Dolfinarium at Harderwijk and De Haar Castle are both within half an hour, and the Grebbeberg at Rhenen is a short climb with a view over the Rhine.
Who Utrecht suits
- Anyone touring the country from one base: everything is within an hour
- Walkers and cyclists on the Heuvelrug
- Small parties: accommodation goes up to twelve people
- Combining a city visit with woodland
When to go
Spring is best on the Heuvelrug, when the beeches come into leaf. August and September bring the heather into flower at Leersum and Amerongen. Autumn gives the most colour in the estate woodlands. Winter is quiet on the ridge, and a good time to visit the city itself.
